Taking the Ferry from Palermo to Tunis

(All information correct as at December 2023)

During a big trip to the Mediterranean in December 2023, I took the GNV ferry from Palermo, Sicily to Tunis, the capital of Tunisia. 

Here is an account of my experience purchasing the ticket, getting onto the ferry, reaching Tunis and clearing immigration, and finally taking the taxi to my hostel at past midnight.

Grandi Navi Veloci ("GNV") is the only ferry line that sails between Palermo and Tunis. It departs the port of Palermo every Saturday at 12:30pm and reaches the port of Tunis (La Goulette) at around 11:30pm, a journey of approximately 12 hours.

Instead of purchasing the ticket online, I decided to do so in-person at the ticket office because I wanted to familiarize myself with the area so that I won't get lost on the day the ferry departs. The ticket office and where the ferry departs is at the same location.

The GNV ticket office is located inside the port of Palermo. 

This is the entrance to the port. It's a busy area with many trucks and wheelers moving in and out.

The ticket office is on the left side as I walked into the port.

It was challenging to find the ticket office but I kept my eyes peeled for the GNV signage.

There was a path that leads to the GNV ticket office. Notice the blue colored signage pointing the direction.

After much walking I finally found the ticket office.

So happy to finally found the GNV ticket office!

On sailing day, I arrived early at GNV ticket office to pick-up my boarding pass and pay a fee. 

Then, I headed to Immigration to stamp my passport out from Sicily. Immigration is a simple set-up under white tents. 

Upon clearing Immigration, passengers moved to the waiting area which is also under a tent. 

Immigration and waiting area are under tents, which certainly needs improvement.

There are limited chairs/seats in the waiting area and it became congested when more passengers started arriving. People were sitting on their luggage and even on the floor. The authorities needs to provide a more comfortable waiting area instead of a tiny tent.

After waiting for about 2 hours, it was time to board the ferry.

Passengers hurrying across the tarmac with their luggage to board the ferry.

At the entrance to the ferry an officer was checking passports before we could board. When it was my turn, she flipped open my passport and glanced at it with a puzzled look on her face. She asked my purpose of travelling to Tunisia and appeared unsure whether Malaysians needed a visa to enter the country. Then she told me to wait by the side whilst she called someone on the walkie talkie to check. After waiting for about 15 minutes, I was allowed to board the ferry. What a relief! 

Passengers boarding the ferry. 

There are three types of tickets available on the ferry, i.e. the Pullman seats, cabin and suite.

Since the journey between Palermo and Tunis was around 12 hours, I figured it would be more comfortable to take the cabin instead of Pullman seats so that I can snooze comfortably.

I thought that I was going to be the only one in the cabin but was surprised when another lady was already there when I finally found the cabin.

This is how a cabin in the ferry looks like.

The cabin has an ensuite bathroom complete with shower, sink and WC.

At around 10:00pm, they announced that the ferry was to arrive at the port of Tunis (La Goulette) at 11:45pm, and that passengers are to leave the cabins and wait in the common area. 

When I left my cabin, the crew were already waiting outside waiting to clean it.

Everything that happened after that was a mess, from the Tunisian Immigration to the taxi driver trying to fleece me.

At Immigration at La Goulette, I experienced the same thing like when boarding the ferry. This time the immigration officer brought me to see his superior who was standing by the side. The superior asked my purpose of travelling to Tunisia and appeared unsure whether Malaysians needed a visa to enter the country. With all these challenges, I couldn't help thinking that I'm probably the first Malaysian to travel to Tunisia via ferry. After thinking long and hard, the superior nodded to the officer signaling that I could proceed to enter the country. A second relief on that journey!

When I exited the area, a bunch of taxi drivers a.k.a. touts surrounded me. After bargaining with one of them, we agreed on a price and I boarded the taxi. 

Throughout the journey to the hostel, the driver explained about the port of La Goulette.

When we arrived at the area where my hostel, Auberge El Medina is located, the driver couldn't find the hostel. He said that the hostel is located inside the souk where a taxi is unable to access. I was tempted to leave the taxi and find the hostel on foot because it would be much easier. But because it was already pass midnight, and my first time in Tunis - I was certainly not going to risk my safety. So I requested the driver to continue looking for the hostel.

After driving around in circles and asking a few people for directions, we finally met a guy who said that he knows where the hostel is and that he would bring me to it. He probably saw my anxious and tired face because he said that he promised my safety.

When I got out of the taxi with my luggage, the guy asked the driver how much was the fare. Then I saw them talking and the guy raised his voice at the driver who then took some cash out of his breast pocket and gave it to the guy. 

After the driver drove off in a haste, the guy said that the driver had overcharged me and returned me the money. I thought that was such a good gesture!

Then the guy brought me to the doorstep of the hostel which was not very far away. 

As we were walking, he told me that he works for a bank. I suppose that is why he speaks good English and has integrity. If I remember correctly, he said that his name was Fareed and that he lives in the area. Well, Fareed, thank you for being a gentleman; you made my day.